domingo, 19 de enero de 2014

BASES FOR BEGINNERS 3 (english)

Greetings  small and abyssal evil creatures again!

Reviewing ancient scrolls I've seen articles about bases about  I wrote last year and I feel like talking about these small bits of terrain where our small warriors are frozen in time like flies in amber.



 So after BASES FOR BEGINNERS 1 and 2, here's the next level,bases with putty. 

 The putty is the way to make the most unique and spectacular of all bases, obviously, our only limitation is our imagination and patience.

The first materials. To make you will need putty bases hand obviously and at least one sculpting tool.
For putty I recommend to start MILLIPUT red, that is the easiest to handle for simple bases with we must  start.
  

Inside the box are two MILLIUT different color tubes which are the two components of the epoxy putty.

We'll take 50% of each material and we will use fingers until getting a uniform yellow color without dark traces. MILLIPUT is diluted in water whereby  fingers will be moistened a bit to work with it without you stick to your fingers.

 Regarding the sculpting tool, it would be better either double pointed a knife-shaped and other shaped spoon . I use the pack of three lancets GaleForce9 that comes with two sizes of sculpting lacents and a very fine point punch.


Bases made that I will show you are the series that I got for my WARMACHINE necromechanics  forces. The idea was that my crysisans were immortalized  during a typical round to a coastal town. I imagined my undead black disembarking from their ships and moving forward the harbor and the streets in search of their enemies.
 
With that idea in my mind I decided to make four models of different bases: wood simulating berths, cobblestone simulating the streets, ground simulating areas unpaved on the population and, finally, water simulating forces advancing on the beach population. Furthermore I made some bases as a transition between different types.

 
WOOD:
With our mixed putty will fill the bases and  we will smooth them just using a plastic card, the sculpting lancet or anything else. If the putty is not handled well you can wet the surface a bit.

 

The art of sculpting putty for small projects like this is not out of reach either, just be patient and observant enough. When we want to represent reality is good looking pictures and photographs to get an idea of what we want to sculpt.

In this case, the wood is regular grain patterns straight lines but not uniform. It is also rare, and more in a pre-industrial era as can be Inmorien, the planks are alike. With this in mind we started working our ""wood".

A few lines now were sculpted in the putty to set the planks of wood. The lines should not be uniform and planks must be some difference in thickness.


To correct a mistake if we first do a superficial lines that gradually, after several passes with the wet lancet, we defined. How are you are lines continue reviewing the boards down to the plastic base.


Now with a finer, or a punch, "will draw" lancet lines following those wood grain patterns that we talked about before.

 You can leave a gap between planks, simulating wood knots that have fallen.


With that let the putty dry 24 hours before continuing to work. Once  the surface is dry you will file it and go over the lines that have been poorly defined or covered when you use the file.

Finally withdraw the remainas that have been left with a toothbrush and clean up the edge of the base.
 
PAVING:

For pavers follow the same initial process for wood but drawing a scheme based on rectangles.

First sculpt as much a possible straight and equidistant parallel lines freehand. Do not worry if some line you have a little crooked. After sculpt lines perpendicular to the above but broken, making the pattern of the paving stones.

As before we start doing very smooth lines, if we are wrong to cover them again and correct. Then deepen the lines but in this case without reaching to the base itself.

Once dry the surface and clean it with a brush after reviewing the lines we will file again with the lancet.

Now, with the tip of the lancet will defect from tearing chunks of cobblestone pavers irregularly.



The last step is paved wear over hundreds of feet, wheels and helmets to over time. With tweezers to keep open about 1 cm, we will scratch the entire surface in different directions.


Here is an example of how the pavement is finished after sculpting.


I have three types of cobblestone bases: The first part I will part wood and cobblestone as I described, simulating over berth to the cobbled harbor area. The second will be completely cobblestone, but this can be a bit boring so they will be less. Latest cobblestone will be giving way to the ground.

The first and second and I explained. The third part we leave the base without cover with putty and crushed portion masillada on the edge with the part without putty.

Having done that, we'll queue with no water on the putty and place them on the pedestals of fine silica sand.



Let it dry enough so that the sand does not come off the bases and will shake to remove excess.


Try to keep the edges of the possible bases as clean putty and sand to avoid ugly later when we paint finishes.

WATER:

Finally I decided to do a couple of bases to feign progress of some undead by water.

I started by removing all the central part of the base with pliers and blade. We must be extremely careful not to break the ring of the rim of the base.


With the help of a round file to give a polished edge that we just get finished.


When we use the water to the base effect need this so we can tight a lid on the bottom.
 
In my case I used a plastic blister compass and a knife to cut a cap on the size of the bottom of the base-ring that has reached us. Need not be transparent if it is fine but make it easier to stick and not change the height of the stand later.


Placing the lid will stick adhesive on the inside of the ring, preventing debris that might be protruding from the outside.


When dry it will fill with putty MILLIPUT trying not protrude from the inner circle of the ring we have.


Let dry adhesive and grout thoroughly before filing the defects that have been left from the top until the finish is smooth.


Apply glue and water into silica sand, as in the case of looking pavers only cover the lower interior of the base part.



And here's a final family photo of all the bases that I've done so far and, I can not wait to tell you as I have painted but have seen and my Mechanical Slaves not many articles.



But I can not write forever, it would never end and I would tell you everything in one blow, and what would I have to tell you?

So far all for today, be back soon to talk about WARMACHINE that I have seen you look live very interested and if anyone is interested Privater Press will make an INSIDER , that is, a report, on16th in the afternoon at GTS, so encourage you and you will see lots of thumbnails and WM fans!
Until next interplanar connection, navigators!!